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Thursday, September 15th, 2011

New York Fashion Week Spring 2012: Ladylike Glamour

There has been quite a bit of agreement between designers this season. There’s a sporty, athletic vibe, colors so bright you might need you shades indoors and twisted Hawaiian prints in sweet sundresses. But the overwhelming throwback was a ladylike kind of glamour.

That nipped-in waist and pretty skirt was natural for Carolina Herrera, the penultimate lady herself. Gowns flowed long and easily and there wasn’t too much fuss with the silhouette. Many could be red carpet dresses, but paired with metallic flats, there was room to be veer more casual.

Carolina Herrera

Carolina Herrera Spring 2012

The designer Carolina Herrera

Carolina Herrera photos: Frazer Harrison, Getty Images

Meanwhile, designer Jenny Packham has had a buzzy season, in large part to her alliance with the Kate of the moment. Packham has been working with the Duchess of Cambridge on her growing wardrobe. Her romantic, art deco aesthetic is strong as ever. In typical Packham style there’s plenty of sparkling crystal embellishment. With that kind of feminine adornment, might as well go all the way; the best pieces were on delicate nude tulle or lace.

Jenny Packham

Jenny Packham Spring 2012

New York Fashion Week Spring 2012: Lady

Jenny Packham photos: Peter Michael Gills, Getty Images

Donna Karan has always had a knack for understanding how busy women dress. Some seasons she leans more heavily to workwear, but for Spring 2012, she was thinking statement dresses. This being Karan, nothing was too drippy or sweet. The flounced number on Karlie Kloss was both graphic and striking.

Donna Karan

Donna Karan New York Spring 2012

The designer Donna Karan

Donna Karan photos: Mike Coppola, Getty Images for Mercedes Benz fashion week

Frillier ladies could indulge girly fantasies at Rebecca Minkoff. The pregnant designer, with the budding accessories empire, showed feminine short suits in bright lime and tomato-red. Dresses were slightly retro with proper collars mixed in with cut-outs.

Rebecca Minkoff