PFW SS12: Celine, Balenciaga, Dior and More

Over the weekend, some of Paris’ most influential fashion houses sprung their Spring 2012 collections. Running lead in the editor-favorite race was Phoebe Philo’s spare and restrained collection for Celine. Unlike several other houses that have run amok with color, print and silhouette. Philo toyed with the sheath. The armhole was cut high and lined together, the looks evoked a certain kind of modern uniform. There were some sheer pieces too, as we’ve seen run through other collections this season and last. Only at Celine, that had a stiffer substance to them to was pleasing and somehow more wearable. Ford Models has been releasing some well-shot videos. Unlike your usual runway vids, these are backstage and the clothes look wonderfully clean close-up.

Over at Dior, anticipations were running high for the first post-Galliano RTW collection. New creative director Bill Gaytten ran it pretty and safe. Waistlines sat a tad high, a cinched-in look that is sure to flatter most ladies. And unlike Gaytten’s previous couture collection (and also many of  Galliano’s too fantastical recent collections) there was an admirable approach to everyday luxury in the dresses and separates. After all, not everyone can while away the daylight hours at La Perle.

At Balenciaga, Nicholas Ghesquiere had much less to prove, but he impressed the eye anyhow with Cristobal-type volume rendered into futuristic, color-blocked jackets atop very short shorts. As has already traversed the web, the plastic benches collapsed on the front row regulars and the audience ended up having to stand. Uncomfortable? Probably. But it likely saved them having to rise for a standing ovation anyway.

Peter Copping at Nina Ricci has settled firmly into his ladies will be ladies look. This season, he was interested in underthings. A bra top served as contrast to an other proper full circle skirt and there was sheerness here too, although lighter than the structured pieces at Celine. Copping didn’t forget his customer though. He also offered lovely car coats, on in a light metallic pink and dressy day frocks with hemlines swishing at the knees.

By: Bee-Shyuan Chang