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Thursday, November 17th, 2011

Yves Saint Laurent Fall 2011: In Control

Nothing like the threat of losing your job to ignite some creativity. Or in the case of Stefano Pilati, just rumors. Every season it seems, his name is swirled around the replacement jar and each collection, YSL promptly shoots them down. So you got the sense that the designer had had enough for Fall 2011 and the when Pilati puts his foot down, you feel it. The collection was focused, striking and outstanding.

The Italian designer referenced menswear with houndstooth and double-breasted blazers, but the nod wasn’t too literal. Jackets were cut short and tailored for a woman and there were terse and sexy details such as the patent sheen of a polka dot shift or the the swishy feathers of a purple coat.

And unlike so many luxury collections, these were pieces real women could wear. A white waxed satin blouse with blouson sleeves and black and white Prince of Wales wool wrap skirt lifted typical office attire from drab to powerfully glamorous. The rounded ’70s shoulder and full sleeve was carried throughout, including a handsome black wool and silk quilted cape coat.

For night, Pilati turned up the tension with distinct, plunging V-shaped neckline and sheer chiffon accents that reached upwards to cinch at the neck. The effect was startling in the best way and was strongest in a black jumpsuit and then a swingy knee-length soft white dress. The frock was one in a glamorous set of white creations to close out the show, including a bow-front blouse tucked into palazzo pants and a louche white satin crepe tuxedo. Styled with nothing underneath, the evening suit would look perfect on Angelina Jolie.