More from New York Fashion Week Day #3
Have we been disappointed yet? No, I think not! Let’s see what else made it’s way down the runway on Saturday…
Alexander Wang’s Fall 2012 collection was… unconventional. I mean, you don’t typically see models strut down the runway with their mouths covered by mesh turtlenecks, as if they’re avoiding some sort of nasty flu virus. I think Alexander Wang was thinking… “post-apocalyptic.” His collection showed a wide range of looks, everything from evening dresses dressed down with full-arm gloves to fringed details. But, they all did have one thing in common: a slick and glossy surface. Wang explained his interest in fabric manipulation and the idea of lamination and lacquer fed into this collection’s textural approach. Most of the fabrics we saw come down the runway were covered or finished in sort of polish. His leathers and suedes looked almost waxed. As for style: longer skirts and buttoned-up coats executed with excellent construction and design precision gave this fall collection a cool-factor typical of Wang.
Rachel Zoe’s on top and there’s no denying it. Her Fall 2012 collection was definite confirmation of that. For the first time, she showed in a traditional fashion show setting rather than a presentation – as she has done in the past. Her inspiration for this collection was London glamour of the late-sixties. Her show opened with the finest looking faux fur coats, trendy pantsuits, maxi dresses, brocade blazers, and thigh-high suede boots. Some of her newer designs included pleated trouser pants, below-the-knee pencil skirts, and a contemporary, cool take on the palazzo pant. The collection’s diversity was awesome, with all sorts of different textures from velvet to sequins and of course, leathers and tweeds. When asked who she had in mind when designing the collection she explained: “Everybody. For the girl or woman that loves fashion.”
Jackets anyone? Altuzarra’s Fall 2012 collection showcased expertly tailored cropped sailor peacoats, knee length shearling lined coats, leather coats with fur collars, and velvet blazers. Gypsies inspired this poised collection; some of the looks were even accessorized with belly dancer style sashes wrapped around the waist or added along the hems of dresses and similar style prints, embellished with coin medallions made their way down the runway. Then, the mood met military as the styles became slightly more structured and shiny brass buttons accented the knits and printed pants. To finish it off, the models wore over the knee, thigh-high patent leather lace up stiletto boots.
Prabal Gurung’s Fall 2012 collection called “Uncursed” was definitely darker than we’re used to seeing from this designer. Looks done in mostly black were the first to make their way down the runway, as the models donned military-style visors. The beginning of the show had lots of patent leather, fur, and sexy little black dresses. This wave of black in the early part of the show was representative of the “cursed” looks, perhaps inspired by hell. As the show progressed, the looks got softer and prettier i.e. heavenly. Amongst these “uncursed” looks were almost gaudy white gowns with gold, feather, and embroidery detailing. During the show’s transition between hell and heaven, there was a series of embroidered knits and flared skirts done in rich, beautiful blues.
By: Robyn Alt