Fashion

Friday, September 14th, 2012

Marchesa

Many baubles and beads have been strewn across the cutting room floor since Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig launched their label. Revisiting that Indian theme showed how far this twosome has come. And their trip down memory lane—guided, swami-like, by the Beatles’s guru Maharishi Mahesh Yogi—resulted in a collision of the rarified and time-honored beading and embroidery skills of India, not to mention its wildly vivid color palette (chartreuse, turquoise, garnet, fuchsia, coral, and, of course, pink) with the groovy countercultural mood. Sari silk dresses had a fluttery cape overlay, or a Mod-ish shift shape to them, and were layered over capri pants. These were partnered with the shoe seen pretty much throughout the entire show, a brocade or jewel-encrusted low skinny-heeled Christian Louboutin sandal.

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Proenza Schouler

McCollough explained that they wanted to explore “a mix of technology and craft,” and they utilized time-honored techniques like patchwork and crochet (already seasonal trends) in exciting ways, and deftly harnessed them to garments of such tidy perfection that they seemed computer-manufactured. Color-blocking turned into elaborate patchwork effects (of eelskin, leather, and python, for instance), mirrored in the clutch purses. Pattern pieces and decorative circle insets were linked by narrow strips of crochet-work.

Reed Karkoff

Krakoff’s concern with utility and efficiency carried over, no pun intended, into the clothes too: a series of jackets, boxing shorts, and body-hugging slipdresses in thin layers of sepia-toned jersey. Everything was soft and fluid, sharpened by geometric panels of black satin or visible lingerie. “I wanted to take it to a place that’s more architectural,” Krakoff said, “not so frilly.”

Anna Sui

The designer presented a collection fullfilled of prints in a variety of formal pieces such as blouses and trousers in tailor cuts. Squares, animal print, flowers and embroidery in excess were shown in the runway with no limits at all. The result?… shocking looks for women with a defying strong personality.

© Getty Images

By: Itziar Arriola H.